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Topic: HD29Darbee throw distance and Screen Gain/FL doubt
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Joined: Apr 20, 2017
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Hello.... I am new on the forum. First of all sorry for my english surely you will see I dont write very well... I am from Argentina.

I was reading tons of info in this forum, on projectorcentral, and on internet in general last days...

I am planning my HT (on my living-room) and will apreciate some help to know if I am going in the right way.

The utilization of the HT will be to view HD content, movies, series, sports, etc... and to play PS4.

After a long comparation of a few projectors I have decided to buy the new HD29Darbee wich is very similar to HD28DSE, And also I will buy a Loch Grey HC screen, 130" 16:9.
Also I think is a good idea to buy the wireless HDMI WHD200. I hope it works ok, I read some issues like connections lost....

My first doubt is about the throw distance and other values I got from projectorcentral projection calculator:

For 130" screen, the HD29 must be placed at 4.4m distance, and the Loch grey screen has 2.5 gain, then... I obtain in calculator an FL value of 74, and the 4.4m throw distance is on the very red part of the bar, far away of the green part, wich begin at 8.3m.

in summary, my concern is about the far far away green part of the bar, and the high FL value I got.

Is wrong what I am planing to do? Can I improve the HT design?

Thank you!!!
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Theaters are dark. Period. You want to balance the quality of the room you are in against the quality you expect from front projection.

The bottom line is that a screen cannot fix a bad room. You need a good room for quality front projection.

If you have a bad room, and you cannot or will not fix it, then the image quality will suffer. Screens do not fix a bad room, they provide a band-aid, which trades off image quality for screen gain.

So, to get a 2.5 gain, you will add hotspotting and lose image uniformity. The image likely will be visibly different from one edge to the other as you move in the room, and very likely will have some shimmering to it. This would be typical of high gain grey screens and the true ambient light rejecting screens are notorious for this issue.

Still, to combat the loss of contrast in a poor room with high ambient light, the added gain may be necessary. The reality is that you can always dim a projector with different settings or with ND filters (neutral density) which are like sunglasses for a projector.

I also wouldn't touch a projector with a 2x color wheel like Optoma has been putting out. But, that's up to you.

Finally, put a wire in place.

Wireless WILL add input lag to the system making your gaming experience slower. You may have dropouts, because wireless often isn't as good as advertised, and HDMI operates at over 3GBs, which is a lot of data being sent without wires. Running one $40 HDMI cable fixes all those issues.

I'm not sure of your room, of your desires, or of your expectations. I ran a projector in a family room, but the room had one window which I covered and it worked pretty well during the daytime on a white screen. After dark it was great. If your room allows for you to block most light coming into the room, then a grey screen with 1.1 gain is far more appropriate and I would really look at the Epson 3700 or the BenQ HT2050 over the Optoma.
AV Integrated - Theater, whole house audio, and technology consultation during the build and installation process in the Washington, DC metropolitan area.
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Quote (AV_Integrated on Apr 21, 2017 6:41:58 AM):
Theaters are dark. Period. You want to balance the quality of the room you are in against the quality you expect from front projection.

The bottom line is that a screen cannot fix a bad room. You need a good room for quality front projection.

If you have a bad room, and you cannot or will not fix it, then the image quality will suffer. Screens do not fix a bad room, they provide a band-aid, which trades off image quality for screen gain.

IT IS UNDERSTOOD!
My Livingroom have 4 windows with blinds, eventually I will use the PJ at day, but most usually will be used at night.

And at night, I will usually use it with the lights off, but sometimes I should probably leave some dim ambient light on one corner opposite the screen wall (aprox 7m distance).

Walls and ceiling are completely white.

In short, I will usually use it without daylight or artificial light, but... if I can eventually use it with low light (for example for small kids) and the projection look just as well, much better. But primary PJ utilization will be with lights COMPLETELY off, I have a big ledTV on the same room.

Quote (AV_Integrated on Apr 21, 2017 6:41:58 AM):
So, to get a 2.5 gain, you will add hotspotting and lose image uniformity. The image likely will be visibly different from one edge to the other as you move in the room, and very likely will have some shimmering to it. This would be typical of high gain grey screens and the true ambient light rejecting screens are notorious for this issue.

OK THEN....
So, for my particular case, as explained above, it suits me more a white screen of 1.1 gain?

I was thinking of buying the screen locally, and I do not have too many options, or I bought the LOCH gray 2.5 or I bought a white one of 1.1. BUT NO HIGH QUALITY SCREENS ARE AVAILABLE HERE.


Quote (AV_Integrated on Apr 21, 2017 6:41:58 AM):
I also wouldn't touch a projector with a 2x color wheel like Optoma has been putting out. But, that's up to you.

I'm not sure of your room, of your desires, or of your expectations. I ran a projector in a family room, but the room had one window which I covered and it worked pretty well during the daytime on a white screen. After dark it was great. If your room allows for you to block most light coming into the room, then a grey screen with 1.1 gain is far more appropriate and I would really look at the Epson 3700 or the BenQ HT2050 over the Optoma.

I SEE... and now as explained above some more about my room and my expectations, still recommend me these PJs over the optoma?
I must stay under U$S 1000 PJ because of importation limitations.


And finally... What can you tell me about the calculator?
Should I try to get the throw distance on the green side or does it not matter if it fall in the red zone of the bar?


Thank you very much for your reply, it serves me a lot and I really appreciate it.
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Please take a look at this:
http://www.avintegrated.com/lighting.html

This is my old family room setup. 106" grey screen with .8 gain. The projector is the (very old) Panasonic PT-L300U, which is maybe putting out 400 or 500 lumens.

You can see how even with a low .8 gain it is still really looking good overall because of the light control.

With white walls and a white ceiling, I would likely recommend about the same. A 130" .8 to 1.1 gain screen which looks good. There are a number that don't look very good, but that would be my preferred recommendation.

If you can't find a 1.1 gain grey screen that looks good, or are unsure, I would likely go to a 1.0 gain white screen, just a very basic white screen, to preserve the best image quality possible. If you decide to paint the room at some point a darker color, the white screen will only look better and better in such a situation.

It doesn't sound like you need the lumens of the Epson 3700, and really you will get one of the best possible images with the BenQ HT2050. I certainly would recommend that over the Optoma.

As for the calculator: You want to be towards the upper area of the green or a bit into the red. That means you have a bit more light than what you need for a dark theater space. It will accept some ambient light if needed, and will allow for the lamp to dim a bit as it ages. About 20 to 25 lumens per square foot is a nice spot to be.

I have some images here as well, of my current W1070 shown on a 161" diagonal screen with 1.3 gain.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/1720730-w1070-lights-161-screen.html

The room is less than ideal, and I have some shots with uncontrolled lights on in the room. At 130" you will be just fine I expect.
AV Integrated - Theater, whole house audio, and technology consultation during the build and installation process in the Washington, DC metropolitan area.
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Thx AV....

My options for locally available displays are: 130 "gray 2.5 or 135" white 1.1, both in 16: 9 aspect ratio

As for the projector, both the BenQ HT2050 and the W1070 can get them locally, they would even cost me cheaper than importing an Optoma HD29 or similar.

I know the W1070 is an old projector, but as you mentioned, I wonder if it would be advisable against 2050, because as I say, both are available locally. I am not very familiar with buying models that are no longer in production line, but I accept the recommendation of who knows more.